Capital of Corfu’s north-east, Kassiopi is a thriving harbour and resort. Within a ring of souvenir and beach shops, it has a heart of gold: a cleanly-paved harbour, well-tended gardens, benches for the weary, and smart shops, restaurants, and cafés. Pleasure craft and cruise boats jostle for mooring space with small trawlers. Canons point out to sea, their threat long faded, against a backdrop of stylish Kassiopi villas and apartments rising in terraces from the harbour. A holiday in the hamlet of Kelia lies on the hillside above, within walking distance of the town.